Auto Block On Double Rope Rappel

Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine.

Auto block on double rope rappel.

Top belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. In a multi pitch rappel setting this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system. Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten. How to use an auto block to backup your rappel.

The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well. Designed for use as an auto block knot prusik on single or double ropes to protect you on rappel or aid in ascending the rope in emergency. French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration. It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used.

One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device. At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer. Wyatt hansen 15 201 views. Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration.

The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top belay a second. An auto block is a rappel backup or a third hand meaning if you get knocked unconscious or lose control of the rope it will tighten up and keep you from plummeting downward. Set it up correctly. A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath.

We observed less resistance with some of the single strand devices however in our testing with a 9 5 mm sterling rope and a petzl attache carabiner we found the resistance with the. For those just starting with any type of rock climbing including rappelling remember the following basics. It needs to be short enough so it can t get caught in the belay device which would render it useless. Obsession climbing 20 250 views.

Presenter darrell weston videographer matt blecharz. Auto block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side.